Blitz Dual Solenoid Boost Controller (DSBC)

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Installation Procedure for Mitsubishi 3000GT
Installing wiring harness and vacuum tube for DSBC
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I used the small round passage (closed by a
rubber gromet) on the right side of the steering column under the dash to route the wiring
harness and the vacuum tube to the engine compartment (the inner dam is already slotted). As it
is not easy to reach the hole from the engine bay, I used a big screwdriver and pushed it hard
against the rubber piece until it broke in the middle. I had no chance to remove it from the
engine bay (big fat fingers, hehe) but the slotted rubber part is big enough. The picture shows
the small black vacuum tube and the harness already routed to the hole.
Later, I replaced the small tube that comes
with the DSBC with a larger hose for the additional boost gauge I mounted next to the controller.
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First I pushed the tube from the inner-side
trough the firewall into the engine bay. Only a few cm were enough as I then was able to reach
it with the fingers behind the engine. I did the same with the harness but be sure NOT to pull
too hard at the connector !!! But it's easier than it sounds :) On the picture the harness is
comming out the firewall behind the wrapped tube. I then routed it up to keep it away from any
hot parts. Also the vacuum tube is visible. Due to its less flexibilty it's routed within a
larger loop and it then also goes to the passenfers side.
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Now route the wiring harness to the desired
location of the Blitz dual solenoid valves box. Use some ties to hold the harness in position
to prevent any burning from hot devices. I placed it along the firewall and tied it to existing
tubes (left side of the picture) Then it goes down the washer fluid filler, passes the battery
and reaches the solenoid box after the K&N filtercharger.
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The vacuum tube can easily be routed to
the desired location at the purge control hose that's attached to the intake manifold. Just cut
the small hose about in the middle and use the supplied T fitting to connect the hoses together.
The Blitz vacuum tube can now easily be pushed into the T.
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Finally route harness and tube to the center console or wherever the controller will
be installed. Use some tie-rods for fixing them to prevent them from falling
onto the pedals.
Installing the double solenoid valves box
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First look out for a good place to mount the
Blitz DSV box. Unfortunately there's not many space available for such a box with attached hoses
! I placed the box just infront the K&N filter but maybe somebody else find a better place. Due
to this location almost the full lenght of the supplied hose are used. As the hoses are very
good quality I do not expect any losses of vacuum or boost.
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Now locate the hose that feeds the wastegate
actuators and wastegate solenoid valve at the Y-pipe elbow (there's only one). The picture shows
it on the left top side of the air-filter for the BOV vaccum line. Just remove the hose from
the y-pipe by now. Next attach one of the supplied Blitz hoses to the port on the y-pipe. The
hose is slightly too large for the plug but it's ok with by clamp it a little tighter. Route
the hose to the Blitz solenoid valve IN port. Now take the other Blitz hose and attach it to
the smaller one we removed earlier from the y-pipe. I used another connecting piece as the
supplied ones were too large for the stock hose and secured it by tying the assembly to the
fuel pressure regulator bracket (upper section of the pic with the second screw clamp).
Again route the hose along the IN one to the solenoid valves box and connect it to the OUT
port.
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Finally connect the Blitz harness to the solenoid valves box harness.
Installing the Boost Controller
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I used the Blitz DIN mount for my application.
Fortunately the european models already carries a DIN Stereo (I replaced it with a Sony) and I
thought installation should be easy.
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The front cover holds a small compartment
(was good to put all the tickets into). I removed it (3 screws) from the back and wanted to
place the DIN mount into the cover. But it was too small and there would be some unlovely
gaps around it. Finally I decided the cut the back piece of the small box and I got a frame
that exactly surrounds the Blitz DIN mount. Furthermore I measured the size and mounting
brackets and found out that the DIN mount should just "snap" in easily. And it did !
The cleanest thing I've ever seen
:) The controller now just slips in from the back. Attach some of the double sided tape
and it would hold there forever (I haven't done this yet). Now use the small gray hose
connector and just push the vacuum tube comming from the controller into one side and
the vacuum tube comming from the engine bay into the other side. Now connect the wiring
harness to the controller harness. Finally attach the black cable to a good ground (e.g.
from the Stereo) and the red one to a ignition wire (also from the Stereo, usually red or
yellow).
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Installation is done ! Just put the cover back on and everything is ready for
the first test !
Test, Settings and Impression
I turned the ignition key and the DSBC was
immediatly working by showing 0.00 kg/cm2 (sure, engine was not running, hehe). I've then
played with all the functions and finally set the mode to OFF and pushed the volume button
until the boost meter showed up. I started the engine and everything was fine. The boost
meter showed -47 cmHg and increased when revving it up. A little too less in my opinion
but I'm not sure. I made my first testdrive and checked the boost peak by pressing the
volume button once.
It showed 0.42 bar (6 psi) for stock setting.
I thought they are set to 8 psi from factory but this is probably one of the differences between
the US and European models. I've then set the #1 Ratio to a value of 20 and recognized a peak
boost of 0.52 bar (8 psi) now. The system works !!!
I then played around with it and made several
runs including some G-Tech Pro measures. First I've set the warn function to 1.00 bar (14.5psi)
But it tooked some times until I reached this boost. To go the save way I've set the WARN
limiter to -10 at 1.00 bar and it was interesting how the car felt. At the beep I felt like
boost was somewhat reduced and came back after two seconds until the beep was there again. With
this setting I've run a new best ET of 13.52@108.5 (G-Tech). HURRAY ! With the bleeder valve
(boost was set to 0.72 bar, 10.4 psi) my best was 13.71@105. Great ! But this is not the end
of the story. I've then set the warn to 1.20 bar and reduced Ratio only -4. I also increased
the value to 65 and set the G-Tech. After the run the peak showed 1.12bar (16.2psi). NEW
RECORD : 13.28@110.2 (G-Tech)
On several testings I runned into a known
problem. The car just started to bog and stumbeling around 5000-5500rpms. The problem is
definitely related to the plugs and their gapping as well to the wires. After changing the
wires with Magnecor 8.5mm and putiing new plugs gapped at 0.91mm the problem went away !
Ok, it came back during testings as I increased the boost limiter and it started again at
1.28bars continous boost. Short peaks of more than 1.3nars where no problem.
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